Saturday, 6 April 2013

Aswan

I guess it's high time I write about my Easter holidays now. I will start by writing about Aswan, where Chiara and I spent some eventful days in the beginning of our vacation. Aswan is a small town by the Nile in southern Egypt, in an area full of historical monuments, so obviously, our visit contained quite a few temple trips. One of the most notable temple sights we visited was Abu Simbel, which lies even further south than Aswan, close to the border with Sudan. Here Pharaoh Ramses II, probably the most modest ruler in history, built a Great Temple in honour of himself, and a smaller one dedicated to the cow-goddess Hathor, simultaneously honouring his wife Nefertari. I can understand the woman: if my husband built such extravagant temples for himself, I would also demand he built at least a small one for me. One where I was depicted as actually being about the same height as him, instead of one where he is portrayed as a giant, whereas the statues of me don't even reach his knee, as is the case with the Great Temple.

When the Aswan High Dam was built to regulate the flow of the Nile and supply Egypt with power some 40 years ago, its monstrous reservoir Lake Nasser drowned a whole valley, and had it not been for the fact that UNESCO moved them, these temples (and many others) would now be crumbling away on the bottom of the lake. I found especially the Great Temple very fascinating. Lining the entrance to the temple are four giant statues of Ramses II, inside carvings depict the mighty Pharaoh slaying his enemies, then we see him making his offerings to the gods, and in the innermost room he is portrayed sitting on his throne, next to the gods. It renders such an imposing image of the Pharaoh - it is not hard to imagine what awe and fear he must have inspired in his subjects. It is one of those places which makes you feel very, very small - even more than 3000 years later.

The Great Temple at Abu Simbel
Ramses II and his minuscule wife
The Temple of Hathor at Abu Simbel, decorated with statues of Ramses and Nefertari
Lake Nasser, the largest artificial lake in the world according to my faithful Lonely Planet

The Aswan High Dam
We also made a day trip to the temples of Edfu and Kom Ombo north of Aswan. The temple at Edfu was built for the falcon god Horus, and is the best preserved temple in Egypt. What I found most interesting was seeing the solar barque inside the temple, which was used for parading the statue of Horus about during celebrations. I've seen these boats depicted in many temples before, but never seen a real one, so I very much enjoyed that. Well, to be completely honest, I still haven't seen a real one. The one in Edfu temple is just a replica, as the Europeans (in this case the French) of course stole the real thing. As it always goes.

The temple at Kom Ombo is also dedicated to Horus, as well as my personal favourite among the Egyptian gods, the crocodile Sobek. Come on, you must admit that having a crocodile god is pretty awesome! The temple is beautifully situated at a bend in the Nile, and is very nicely decorated. The site also contains a crocodile museum, where you among other things can enjoy the sight of mummified crocodiles. I don't know why we have discontinued that proud tradition?

Edfu
Replica of solar barque at Edfu
Kom Ombo
Sobek, the crocodile god
The mummified crocodiles

The last temple we visited was the Temple of Isis at Philae, where we attended a sound and light show. It was absolutely stunning: seeing the beautiful temple lit up by night, perched on a green little island in the Nile. It was definitely the most atmospheric temple visit we have undertaken.

Philae by night


Aswan itself is a small, laidback town. Its great contrasts are beautiful: the land by the Nile is extremely lush and green, but immediately behind are rolling, sandy hills. I guess the biggest proper sight here is the Aswan Museum, followed by the ruins of the ancient settlement of Abu on Elephantine Island, but we also spent a lot of time just wandering around the Nubian villages on that same island, visiting the unofficial Nubian museum Animalia which a family has turned part of their traditional Nubian house into, having a look at another traditional Nubian house called Baba Dool, and sailing by felucca to Kitchener's Island, where we walked in the lovely botanical gardens. We came to Aswan for the amazing monuments in the area, but it is the beauty of the Nile and the landscape surrounding it, in addition to the serene atmospere in which you feel as though you have all the time in the world, which makes it such an enthralling place - maybe even my favourite in Egypt.

The lush landscape of Elephantine Island
Me on the roof of the unofficial Nubian museum, Animalia
Baby crocodiles at Animalia. Who doesn't want a crocodile (or three)  in a bucket?
One of the walls at Animalia, decorated with protective symbols to keep evil out
The Nubian house Baba Dool

Me in a village on Elephantine Island
Sailing by felucca to Kitchener's Island
Me in the botanical gardens on Kitchener's Island





Even some of our dinners were quite unforgettable. One night we went for dinner in the restaurant 1902 at the elegant, colonial Old Cataract Hotel, where many an imporant person has stayed, among them Aga Khan, Winston Churchill and Agatha Christie. The place was beautiful and the food exquisite - we had a really great time. Another night we dined at a Nubian restaurant on a small island in the Nile, which was also a pretty awesome setting for a dinner.

The Old Cataract Hotel
1902 at the Old Cataract
Chiara and I dining at 1902
Chiara at the Nubian restaurant Ad-Dukka, situated on a small island in the Nile

The last thing we did before leaving Aswan was to take a boat to a peaceful beach on the west bank of the Nile and swim. Yes, you heard right: I went swimming in the Nile! Beat that!



Swimming in the Nile!

Saturday, 9 March 2013

Whales and other rubbish

Have you ever wondered how you would deal with fame? Here's a simple test: try being an obvious foreigner in Egypt, and see how much you miss being able to walk on the street unnoticed. If the answer is "a whole damn lot", then maybe you should reconsider your desire to be famous.

Aaaaaanyway, I spent last weekend in Cairo with Flynne and Ant, and we started off with a very Egyptian experience, when we suddenly found ourselves tricked into a perfume shop by a new-won friend who might or might not have worked at the Egyptian Museum.

We thereafter went to meet a couple of friends of Flynne and Ant, and headed to Manshiyat Naser, an area more widely known by the less charming name "Garbage City". It is a traditionally Coptic area, where all the rubbish from Cairo is brought for the families there to sort through it and remove anything which can be reused or recycled. Some of them own small shops where they sell these recycled things, whereas other items are sold to bigger factories. It was quite a contrast seeing all the garbage in the street, next to pictures of Jesus and the late Coptic Pope. We stopped at a small, lcoal church which was swarming with kids. It was quite charming and some of the kids were very confident in talking to us. We had wondered how we as foreigners would be received here, but everyone was really friendly.



Maybe we should have expected that - I guess the inhabitants of Manshiyat Naser are used to people passing through their neighbourhood, as it houses the biggest church in the Middle East, Deir Sama'an. It is a modern cave church, built next to the mountain Mokattam, which due to Coptic tradition was moved by some Christian saint in order to prove a saying from the Bible. The church consists of several different church rooms, all built into the mountain. Many stone sculptures depicting different scenes from the Bible are carved into the stone. It was such a breathtaking sight when we came up there - it is really the last thing you would have expected in the midst of Garbage City. We got a free guided tour by a very enthusiastic Copt who relayed all the stories tied to the church with excessive gestures. Before we left we were provided with the business card of the church, containing its web address where we can watch miracles like excorcism live almost every Thursday. There are many miracles on Thursdays, you see.

Deir Sama'an
Inside the main church room
The relics of the late Coptic Pope, I think
Us and our guide inside the church
It's a Coptic tradition to tattoo crosses on your arms. I'm not sure I would've gotten it done at this booth, however

Stone sculptures in the mountain

The next day my namesake Hannah (minus the tiny spelling error in her name) who also goes to the ACL joined us for a trip to the oasis Al-Fayoum a few hours away from Cairo. I had been there once before in October, which you can read about here. This time the police insisted on escorting us, like they sometimes do here - they all seemed very eager to go on a day trip rather than standing by the road inspecting the cars passing by.

We first visited the lakes and the tiny waterfall in Wadi Rayyan where I went last time, but then we ventured into unknown territory: Valley of the Whales. It is a valley far into the desert, conatining whale fossiles from 40 million years ago. Makes the pyramids seem young, huh? As it turned out, you need a jeep to get to Valley of the Whales, and we were in a normal car. Luckily the police came to our rescue, and took us there in their jeep.

The fossiles in themselves were kinda disappointing - silly us for thinking that there would be huge whale skeletons lying in the desert after 40 million years. But even though the fossiles were quite tiny, there is something cool about seeing something so old. Even so, I would say that what was most impressive to look at was the astonishing rock formations there.

The police had asked us to be back after half an hour, and we walked as quickly as we could and only saw about half the fossiles, but somehow by the time we got back an hour had ended up passing.The policemen seemed to be a bit grumpy about that, and their presence soon proved to be a mixed blessing. When we got back to our own driver, they were clearly tired of driving behind our slow car, and sped off in front of us. We got out of our car once in order to take pictures of a beautiful lake which had come into sight - after being in the desert even the sight of water is refreshing. A while after, we caught up with the police who were waiting for us, asking us if we've stopped, making it out as though we'd lost each other due to our two-minute-stop, and not due to the fact that they had raced off, leaving us behind. They managed to thoroughly terrify our driver, and until we were out of Al-Fayoum again we were not allowed to make any further stops. We had to give up on some of the sightseeing we had planned, but what is worse is that we had run out of water, and that a pastry each for breakfast was all we had eaten that day, and we couldn't stop to eat or drink. I think you can imagine how great the mood was in the car for a while, as we were all  extremely hungry and thirsty as we had been walking in the desert and it had been a long day. I guess the good news was that none of us had enough energy to be properly grumpy. It came as a relief when our driver had to stop for gas, and we could get some Coke's to quench our thirst.

A little while ago we had been so happy that we had the police escorting us, taking us to the Valley of the Whales, and now we were cursing their presence. Egypt is a country of extremes - you go from having great experiences and feeling immensely excited, to feeling utterly miserable and being so frustrated that you don't know what to do with yourselves. Life here is never boring.

It felt like we had been rushing around all day, which kinda defeats the point of a visit to Al-Fayoum: the charm of the place lies in its tranquility and peacefulness. We had an interesting and mostly good day, but if I ever go again, I will do my best to do as little as absolutely possible, and take as long as possible to do it. Then I will fully enjoy it.

Flynne, Hannah and me
Flynne and Ant in Valley of the Whales
This used to be part of  a whale's jaw

I'm sorry if this post is a bit rubbish.

...

Pun intended.

Sunday, 3 March 2013

Easter homesickness

Every Easter we would go to the mountains, as many Norwegians do. We would overload our car with luggage and in the earlier years we would fill the five hours' drive with communal singing, until we reached the cottage of my mum's parents in a mountain range in Southern Norway, a cottage with a turf roof and no running water or electricity, heated and lit by kerosene, and with a lovely little outhouse we had to dig away the snow to get to. As Norwegians like it when they go on holiday.

The days would be spent skiing, cross-country skiing that is, basically meaning we would walk into the mountains with our skis on, normally trying to reach some peak or other. My father and grandfather would always say that if we sat down we would become cold, so our breaks would be taken standing up, and last only long enough for us to gulp down some squash and devour the Penguin and Caramel bars my uncle had brought from Scotland. Removing the wrapping of the chocolate with mittons on is unfortunately an art form I've never quite mastered. But if we were lucky, there would be what we call "Easter Weather", with strong, warm sun, and we would gradually take off mittons and scarfs and hats, and maybe even our anorak jackets, which we would tie around our waists. Then the mountains would be full of people from the South Coast, digging  seats in the snow where they would sit and enjoy the sun and eat oranges, watching their kids building ski jumps out of snow and trying to actually jump on them, with varying luck. Old habits die hard, though, and even if it was more than warm enough, we would hardly ever sit down - you can't sit around all day if you want to reach the peaks -, and it's only in the last years my father and grandfather have softened a bit and let us sit down from time to time. We've even tried to bring oranges, but never quite warmed to them - why would anyone want to ski with sticky hands?

I would normally lag a little bit behind, where I could concentrate on my thoughts uninterruptedly, making up some story in my head. The others would maybe stop for a minute or two, and just as I caught up with them, they would start again. I would rest a bit and start later than them, and my father would get annoyed and ask why I always had to do that, whereupon I would complain that I would have gotten no rest otherwise. I never told them I would have walked behind them anyway - I didn't want anyone to distract me from my story.  Usually we would have a lot of energy and reach the peaks without major problems, but if my mum came skiing with us, all us kids would suddenly feel extremely tired and she would have to walk behind with us listening to us complaining, and she would resort to telling stories or promise us that there would be trees full of candy by the next lake to coax us into keeping on.

The sun is extremely bright in the mountains, as it is reflected by the snow, and we would have to wear sun glasses in order not to go snow blind. If the weather was good we would work up quite a tan, but be completely white around the eyes due to the sun glasses, making us look like owls.

Before returning to the cottage someone would have to go to the hole made in the ice on the lake and fetch water. Our grandmother would be waiting for us at the cottage, and after changing from our wet woolen underwear into our indoor clothing, we would all sit down for coffee and cake. My mum would often have made her chocolate cake, which is the best in the world, and brought it with her for this purpose. It would taste absolutely delicious after skiing, but if there was ever anything left over after Easter which we would try to eat in the car on the way home, we would discover that it had acquired a strong taste of kerosene.

In the evenings we would play card games, and everyone would join in except my father and grandmother, who both hate playing cards. They would instead try to read in the dim light from the kerosene lamps, while the rest of us would be arguing over our card games, gloating when we won, sulking when we lost, and always disagreeing on what to play next. My grandmother would always comment on how extremely unprofessional we were: one is supposed to be silent while playing cards.

On Good Friday we would meet with some friends of my grandparents, either at their cottage or ours. There would be tons of cake, and one of my grandparents' friends would always talk twice as much as everyone else, exaggerating wildly as he was telling stories, while his wife corrected him mildly.

At the beginning of the week we would decorate the cottage for Easter, with eggs and chickens and all things yellow. Starting Palm Sunday, my mum would read the appropriate passages from the Bible for us throughout the week. On Easter Eve she and my uncle would fill pâpier-maché eggs with candy, each of them containing a rebus explaining to whom it belonged, and we would then hunt for them around the cottage. Come Easter Sunday we would boil eggs with onion to make them yellow, and sing psalms over breakfast. We would never quite agree on the lyrics, so at times some genius would decide to get the old psalm book out of the book shelf, and would then be singing tons of obscure verses no one else even knew existed.

If we were lucky, the sun would have been strong in the city as well, so that the snow would have melted away prior to our return. When we were small, our friends who had been home over Easter would come running over as quickly as we came home, eager to see us. It felt absolutely wonderful to walk with light summer shoes on bare asphalt again, and we could finally begin playing Chinese jump rope after winter. My mum would tell us off for taking off our jackets, as the spring sun is treacherous, saying we would get ill from the air which was still quite cold. After such a long winter, though, how were we to resist taking off our jackets at the first opportunity?

Some things have changed over the last years. Of course I don't have any mum to scold me for taking off my jacket anymore, and I have probably grown too sensible now to do it anyway. My grandparents and uncle have not been going to the mountains the last few Easters, and we now have electric lights powered by a solar panel, so the food we take home doesn't taste as strongly of kerosene anymore. But my father and siblings and I have still been going skiing in the mountains every Easter, keeping to the traditions as much as we can. This year, however, I will be spending my Easter doing a language course in Cairo. It will definitely be different. But good, I hope. However, as Easter approaches, you might have to put up with a little homesickness on my part.

Me skiing
My parents in the mountains

Wednesday, 20 February 2013

My dad's visit

The most notable thing which has happened in the past few weeks is that my dad visited! During his visit we stayed at the hotel Four Seasons, a completely different world to the rest of Alex! With a huge room, a lovely breakfast where honey was served straight off the honeycomb, and a pool and jacuzzi in the hotel, we were quite comfortable.


My dad wanted, as all parents say who come to visit their kids in Alex, "to see how you live", so of course I had to take him to my flat and introduce him to my flatmates. I also presented him to the lovely old lady downstairs, who is very interested in us and who I knew would be really happy to have met a representative of my family.
My dad and I in my flat
A lot of the time we spent chasing after Patriarchs. The seat of one of the five Patriarchs of the Roman Empire was in Alexandria, and due to the splits in the church which have occured since, there are now at least four different people who lay claim on the title Patriarch of Alexandria. We found the Coptic Catholic Patriarchate, the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate (where we actually saw the Patriarch, we just don't know which of the bearded men in black robes he was), and on the last day we stumbled upon the Coptic Orthodox Patriarchate when we were visiting a network of graveyards belonging to different faiths and denominations. For a graveyard, the one next to the Patriarchate was very much alive: bustling with people and hens and adorable little puppies whose photographs my dad is planning to make a fortune on selling. It was also so full of graves that it was hard walking around without stepping on someone's final resting place. Alexandria is crowded even in death.

We visited the Coptic Cathedral of St. Mark as well, which was situated in a courtyard inside some gates which house an entire little community. I bought a Coptic deck of cards which contains facts about personalities from the Bible, and my dad collected the necessary magnets. We also visited the synagogue of Alexandria, which is one of the largest in the Middle East, but the Jewish community here doesn't number more than 20 people nowadays, so it's unfortunately hardly ever in use. The last stop on our spiritual tour was the mosque Abu Abbas al-Morsi, housing the tomb of a Sufi saint for fishermen.

The Greek Orthodox Patriarchate - Church of St. Saba
My dad next to what we assumed was the old bell of St. Saba
Inside St. Saba




A relic of the last Patriarch



The Coptic Cathedral of St. Mark

The Coptic Orthodox Patriarchate

Puppies in the graveyard
Greek Orthodox graveyard
The synagogue

Inside the synagogue

Mosque of Abu Abbas al-Mursi

Inside the mosque
After quenching our spiritual thirst, our more earthly thirst needed quenching as well, and we spent quite a bit of time sitting in cafés drinking wonderful fresh juices. Sitting outside basking in the sun in February, overlooking the Mediterranean while sipping on a lemon mint juice....hard days, hard days.




Of course, when we had energy to get out of the hotel jacuzzi, we did pretty much all the obligatory tourist stuff as well. We visited Pompey's Pillar, which has survived since the days of the Roman emperors, and we also went to see Egypt's only Roman amphitheatre, which is nice but quite small, and must have been very intimate when gladiators were fighting in the middle. On the site around it a temple and what might be remains of Alexandria's ancient university are being excavated, indicating that there might be a lot more to see here in a few years. We also went on a long walk through some quite lively areas out to Alexandria's citadel Fort Qaitbey, and of the other mandatory tourist attractions we saw the Alexandria National Museum (which you can read about here), the library (see here) and the catacombs (which I wrote about here).

My dad by Pompey's Pillar
Me in front of a sphinx by Pompey's Pillar
My dad at the Roman amphitheatre
Fort Qaitbey



Of the less mandatory tourist sights, we visited the museum dedicated to the big poet of Alexandria, the Greek poet Constantine Cavafy. The museum is situated in his old flat where you can find some of his belongings and a lot of pictures of and information about him and his family and friends, and in addition it contains a very talkative and enthusiastic museum guard, happy to finally be able to share his knowledge with someone.

My dad outside the Cavafy Museum
On the last day we went to the palace gardens of Montazah, which used to belong to King Fouad. The perfect place for a stroll in the sun, with the view of some nice beaches, this was of course where we were surprised by rain and wind so heavy that we had to find shelter indoors.

Me in the Montazah gardens
The palace
A lot of the time we were just walking around as well, which was really nice as I don't normally walk that much in Alexandria. It was nice exploring some new areas and discovering some places. Being on holiday in Alexandria made me like the city a lot more again. We had time to do so much during my dad's visit - hard to believe he only stayed for four days. It was really great to spend some time with him . It was sad when he left, but I was still happy that he managed to change his ticket home - he found out when he got to the airport that his ticket was for a month later.

Me in the market in Manshiya which we walked through



My dad on the Corniche
In other news, I joined Rotaract in holding another outing for the street children, this time in a school where we played games with them. It was a great day, and I got to know some of the girls a lot better.

Valentine's Day took me by surprise here: it's astonishing how easy it is to miss when there's not a month of advertising beforehand. When the day was here, however, the Egyptians put heart and soul into the celebrations: hoardes of people in the streets were wearing red for the occasion, and many shops were excessively decorated, one with a gate of red balloons outside the entrance. But you know what, I can forgive the tackiness - Valentine's Day means free cupcakes at school!